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Elegant and old, this relatively hush city spells oasis to the traveler weary of confrontation. Predating both Havana and Santiago, it has been cast for time immemorial as the city that kick-started Cuban independence. Yet self-important it isn’t. The ciudad de los coches (city of horsecarts) is an easygoing, slow-paced, trapped-in-time place, where you’re more likely to be quoted literature than sold trinkets. It is like stepping back in time, where the date was stuck on 1958, the year that Fidel Castro came to power. Old American cars from the 1940s and ’50s ambled along dimly lit roads. Old, stately buildings stood over narrow streets. The dark of evening added to the city’s mystery, and hid the scars from decades of neglect.
It is a place where live, probably, the most proud people in the world, muy orgulloso de ser cubano (proud to be Cuban). Read More